Puglia is a feeling. It smells of salt water and hot stones, tastes of grilled fish and freshly baked bread. Between deep blue bays, white villages and quiet country roads, the Italian south shows its most laid-back side.
I was on the road with my eyes wide open - accompanied by memories, favorite people and good coffee. Here I share my most beautiful discoveries between the rougher Salento and the more stylish Valle d'Itria.
For me, Puglia doesn't start with a travel guide, but with a personal connection: Emanuele, my partner, grew up in Zurich - but his family has their vacation home in Salento. For him, southern Puglia is both a childhood memory and a summer constant.
So for me, too, Salento has become a place where you can not only experience the south of Italy, but also feel it - with everything that goes with it: noisy street parties, quiet gardens, espresso standing up, life between the sea and the table.
A harbor like something out of a movie - small, calm, quietly rippling. You'll find three favorite spots here:
→ Taverna del Porto - for fish dishes straight from the cutter, served with a view of the boats.
→ Bolina - relaxed, atmospheric and with one of the best pasta vongole far and wide.
→ Bar Mename - Espresso during the day, Negroni in the evening, people-watching in between. Uncomplicated and just right for a last drink by the water.
If you're lucky, someone will be playing music on the quay. If not, the gentle clinking of glasses and the warm evening breeze will do.
If you want to go to the seaside, you have a choice: rough and wild, soft and sophisticated, very basic or with beach club flair. Here are my favorites for every mood:
→ Lido Pizzo, Baja Verde - turquoise, relaxed, genuine. Ideal for arriving and winding down.
→ Lido Zen - stylish, quiet and perfect for a long day with a good book and good taste.
→ C'est la Vie Beach - elegant, modern and with lounge flair right on the water.
→ Togo Bay - chic, well-kept, with fine sand and a gentle soundtrack.
→ Kilometro Zero- not a classic beach, but definitely worth a visit: sunset, live music right on the coast
→ Beija Flor Beach Club - a touch of Brazil in Puglia: colorful, cheerful, charming.
→ Habibi - beach, DJ, drinks & daybeds - stylish and lively, perfect for a late lunch or sundowner.
Newly discovered and particularly atmospheric:
→ Baia Orte - Nature, tranquillity and a wild rocky beach near Otranto. Ideal for anyone looking for the unspoiled.
A little further away from the sea, but right in the heart of Apulian life: If you venture inland, you will discover places full of atmosphere - without any big staging.
→ Le Stanzie is a historic masseria farm that is now run as a restaurant. Yes, it's a little well-known - but rightly so: in the open air, with homemade pasta, the best olive oil and warm hospitality, you can experience the region with all your senses.
Alezio, a small town near Gallipoli, is a relaxed and culturally diverse place:
→ In the restaurant Le Macaretraditional Apulian cuisine is interpreted in a modern way - with a focus on regional products, lots of care and no chichi at all.
→ Just around the corner is El Barrio Verde - a green stage under the trees where aperitifs, live music and culture come together in a very natural way. Casual, local, lively.
A little further north is Galatina - a town with a baroque backdrop and a real legend:
→ The famous Apulian pastry pasticciotto is said to have been invented in the Pasticceria Andrea Ascalone. Warm, buttery, vanilla - a sin you won't regret.
→ If you prefer something savory, head to Staglio Panificati - stylish, young and full of good ideas for bread.
Those who experience Salento as rough and pristine will sense a different atmosphere north of here: everything is a little more refined, polished, almost staged. The typical Puglia style - with light-colored stone floors, designer massages and perfectly coordinated natural tones - is particularly present here.
But even if this part is more touristy, you will find plenty of beauty, style and quiet favorite places among the olive groves, trulli and limestone architecture.
Ostuni: The "white city" stretches over a hill and looks like something out of an architecture magazine. Narrow alleyways, good restaurants, stylish concept stores.
Carovigno: Smaller, more relaxed, with charm and less hustle and bustle. Perfect for an aperitivo in the evening light.
Alberobello: The trulli town may not be an insider tip, but it is still worth a visit - especially early in the morning or later in the evening when the alleyways are emptier.
**For gourmets & aesthetes - here are my favorites
→ Masseria Cimino - near Ostuni, nestled in olive groves, simple and beautiful.
→ Masseria Calderisi - understated luxury, Mediterranean garden, own beach club.
→ Calderisi Mare - beach club & restaurant right by the sea. Perfect for long afternoons with the sound of the sea.
→ Cala Masciola - stylish cuisine by the water, clear shapes, finely seasoned design. Here you eat with your eyes.
If you are traveling between Ostuni and Manduria, you should plan a little detour to Oria. The small town may not be on every bucket list, but that's exactly why it's so charming: a historic old town with winding alleyways, small squares with old palm trees, panoramic terraces with sweeping views over the countryside.
The atmosphere is relaxed, local and uncrowded - a place that doesn't try too hard to please. A perfect stopover for a coffee, a stroll through the old town or a late lunch in the shade of old walls.
Just a few minutes outside is the stylish Hideaway Borgo Gallana - a retreat straight out of an architecture magazine. Three minimalist vacation homes nestled between olive trees, with a pool and views in all directions.
Every detail seems well thought out, but never artificial: muted colors, raw materials, skillful reduction. If you are looking for a few days of complete tranquillity with maximum style, this is the place for you - to arrive, switch off and breathe in.
Puglia is alive. It is not just a place that you visit, but one that is constantly changing. No two visits are the same - too much is changing, growing, emerging.
Every trip brings new discoveries, new beaches, new tavolatas, new favorite places. And although I've already seen a lot, the list remains open - full of places I want to experience next time.
→ Villa Colucci - a boutique retreat near Ostuni, designed by Mete and Rolf Hay, who leave nothing to chance when it comes to aesthetics. I haven't been there myself, but if anyone has taste, it's these two. Architecture, design, nature - everything in the right proportions.
→ Palazzo Edmondo - near Lecce. A place that smells of Puglia in pictures: travertine, terraces, olive trees and understated elegance. Maybe next time.
Puglia is not a destination - it is a state. Between the sea, walls, masserias and music, everything feels a little lighter.
**Puglia, ci vediamo presto
